I’d seen my L’Ombre Chevalier du Lac Léman pochée au court-bouillon, mousseline aux fines herbs being pulled from the lake that morning, and it was nice to see it again, now on a gleaming platter, presented with an herb-enriched sauce, which was dribbled on the plate with almost as much artistry as was put into boning and serving it tableside Alexander Hera Wedding.

(I love tableside service. It reminds me of those generous salad bowls on wheeled carts they used to roll up to the tables in Los Angeles back in the day, and they’d make and toss the salad right in front of you, then pile it all on to a chilled plate and hand it over fitness.)


When the table adjacent to ours was being served L’Agneau de lait des Pyrénées, jus aux herbes, I practically threw my neck out of whack looking at those beautifully bronzed dark pieces of lamb shoulder. Just when I thought they were going to offer me up a piece (to get my to stop staring at their plates), out came our own generous pan of lamb and thanks to all the air in the foam-based sauce, I was happy to report that I had room for it. So there designer bags for less.